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Yuhan Wang is a Central St Martins graduate (which is always a good sign) and has been a favourite during London Fashion Week since her debut show in 2020. The designer set out to explore and challenge Asia?s traditional standards about femininity through clothes and how these connect to Western Culture. Head to the?Venue MOT Instagram?for more information and listen back to a recent?Crack Mix from Mun Sing?below. A smattering of male looks were less inflected by the 1920s (when the founder apparently became the first couturier in Paris to produce menswear) than a desire to present a 2020s foil to the house?s this-season womenswear. The results included boot-cut pants and low-skirted, wide-collar tailoring (so halfway between then and now) spiced with sometimes-coated guipure detailing and shared styling touches. Lanvin?s recent-ish history and powerful origin story means it remains a wonderful but slightly formless opportunity: At this presentation it continued to take gradual shape. For SS24, Ahluwalia featured iconic denim patchwork pieces and feel-good clothes that felt like a celebration of identity. The appearance of gambiered Guangzhou silk is like a buffer zone between large opening and closing. The subtle texture is deeply hiding on the soil-dark fabric, like growth rings. This wisp of poetic favour from the Orient is quietly waiting for the appreciation of eyes. Together with thin soft gray suit and trench coat following on the stage, these works take the audience back to the leisurely 1980s from the magnifcent haute couture period.
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