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Readership of popular titles?Australian Women?s Weekly, Vogue Australia?(News Corp Australia),?Marie Claire,?and?Women?s Day?has increased, according to Roy Morgan, in the 12 months to June 2023. Magazine print readership has risen for four consecutive quarters, bucking earlier downward trends, after the COVID-19 years, which Huxley says were ?good to magazines?. As Karl Lagerfeld once observed of Jeanne Lanvin: ?Her image wasn?t as strong as that of Chanel because she was a nice old lady and not a fashion plate.? That enigmatic quality freed the house?s team to shape a tight collection that was rooted in 1920s style despite it being a period when Lanvin?s most contemporaneously revered volumes were themselves slightly out of time. There was some highly impressive chain and pearl detailing that created a wonderful opalescence on fringe-edged or pleat-fronted and cuffed dresses. And there were hints of the medieval (a Lanvin 1.0 motif) in cross-laced and keyhole heart necklines. In the look book, but not on show at the presentation, was a concession to that volume in hotly colored tailoring. Huxley says two main factors are behind this trend: the enduring brand strength associated with titles during tough economic times, and a consumer reaction to what she calls ?the digital deluge?. After participating in various international fashion contests and winning one of the first prizes of Sangue Novo in March 2023,?Niuka Oliveira?introduces?Perspective, an introspective, personal and vibrant collection. Here, the S?o Tom? e Pr?ncipe-born designer ponders on the knowledge she gained from her creative process and on learning how to free herself from the fear of judgment. ?This collection is about seeing the things that happen to us differently,? she says. ?Working on this collection, I learned to embrace myself differently ? everyone is unique and should feel free to experiment.? In?Perspective, Oliveira pursued her use of abstract printed patterns ? present in her first collection ? further experimented with draping and continued her exploration of bright, bold and energising colours.
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