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Romance was in the air at Simone Rocha, where fresh, pale pink, long-stemmed roses were trapped between layers of tulle that comprised the prettiest of party dresses. That rose theme curiously persisted across fashion?s four main cities for spring. Olivier Rousteing, feeling philosophical after most of his Balmain collection was stolen several days before his show, quoted Gertrude Stein?s 1913 poem ?Sacred Emily? with its famous line ?Rose is a rose is a rose? ahead of a floral-bedecked outing; meanwhile Sarah Burton closed out her Alexander McQueen tenure with a collection partly inspired by a blood-red rose and female anatomy. Spanning rose prints, floral embellishment, three-dimensional appliqu?, or petal-shaped silhouettes, designers from Rei Kawakubo to Richard Quinn are feeling, uh, thorny.
If you were the type to fall into the classroom bag askew, tie half done, shirt half tucked and skirt hiked to your tight garter then merely channel yourself circa year 9 and you?re bang on trend. Polo shirts ? ideally in a lightweight knit ? are going nowhere. The hectic prep-school look ? christened ?sleaze academia? by the trend hunters at Depop bless them ? is yours for the taking. Pleated skirts and kilts (Brit brand Le Kilt cannot be bettered here), knee high socks (yes, really) geeky half tortoiseshell glasses and mussed up hair are the look you?re going for.
(This season) I wanted to expand out the galaxy of the star paillette, which has been present in all my collections. My late father was a scientist, and he would always give me telescopes as a child; I would look at the night sky? the imagination that evokes ? I think fashion is the same.
You can always expect a bit of brightness splashed across the color palettes of spring/summer collections. This year, one of the standout shades is yellow, which appeared in a full spectrum of shade variations ? including a zesty lemon at Prabal Gurung, rich buttercup at Helmut Lang, and ultra-bright neon at Coach.
My favourite theory of 2023, as coined by the stylist Allison Bornstein, goes that the smart way to make your look shine is to wear the Wrong Shoe. A clompy boot with a long skirt, a flip-flop with winter trousers, trainers with a cute dress. The bad news is, this theory is old news; the good news is, there is a handy update for 2024. So Goodbye, Wrong Shoe Theory, and hello Wrong Coat Theory. Which prescribes ? you guessed it! ? spicing up your outfit by wearing a coat that shouldn?t really work. A long tailored coat over a tracksuit, say, or a parka over your party dress. This could be a handy hack for the first few months of 2024, I reckon.
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