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In one of the week?s most anticipated shows, Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his New York debut with an enchanting collection inspired by the once-taboo photographs of Robert Mapplethorpe, progressing from applique florals and wispy transparent fabrics to shimmering crystal mesh gowns to full-on leather bondage styles.
Sustainability rules. The era of fashion industry self-regulation is drawing to a close. Across jurisdictions, new rules will have significant effects on both consumers and fashion players. Brands and manufacturers may consider revamping business models to align with the changes ahead.
Looks like corsetry is here to stay. Rather than the modern mesh-panel pieces favored for sultry summer looks and music festivals, designers dug into the fashion archives for their spring corset design inspiration. The under-bust neckline and longline silhouettes spotted at Palomo Spain took cues from early 19th century styles, while Dion Lee’s nude-toned corsets with visible boning were giving 1920s girdle. At Collina Strada, the hip-fin structure and dipped waist felt entirely Edwardian.
Marking a tentpole return to New York Fashion Week, the designer (and current CFDA chairman) Thom Browne later closed out the proceedings on Valentine?s Day ? and took a moment during his final bow to offer a large, heart-shaped box of chocolates to his partner, the museum curator Andrew Bolton. Despite that moment of romance, Browne?s collection was inspired by Gothic horror and Edgar Allan Poe?s ?The Raven? specifically. (The actor Carrie Coon had provided an eerie narration of the story, which played throughout the runway show.)
After a month full of fashion shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, what are the trends spotted at Spring-Summer 2024 Fashion Week? Sheer or gold white dresses, miniskirts or mini shorts, floral or fringed patterns, total denim looks or leather jackets… Get a glimpse at the pieces we will all wear in the next few months.
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